New target for perfectionists: Itty bitty pores

By Cara Litke

updated 9:17 a.m. ET Jan. 30, 2008

Anyone who complains about the size of her pores probably has clear skin, unsullied by blemishes, freckles, broken blood vessels, lines, or scars. But now, dermatologists are reporting an increase in just such complaints: "Make my pores smaller" is what Mary P. Lupo, professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine, hears more and more. "And patients are never completely satisfied, because there isn't a permanent solution." Lupo coined a term for the preoccupation: "porexia," or the search for impossibly small pores.

There is logic behind the sometimes irrational impulse. "Beauty is associated with perfect skin, and pores are a huge part of that equation," Lupo says. "When pores are tighter, light reflects better. You get an overall appearance of vitality, youthfulness, and health."

Genetics determine pore size, as do skin type and age. "If your skin is oily, and that oil gets trapped inside the pores, it oxidizes and turns dark," says Leslie Baumann, professor and director of cosmetic dermatology at the Miller School of Medicine at the University of Miami. And age factors into the equation because "over time — especially if you've had a lot of sun exposure in the past — you start to lose the collagen and elastin that support the pores," says Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center. "They begin to stretch and sag around the edges, which can make them look bigger."

While we can't shrink our pores with any permanency, the right skin-care products and treatments can help keep the skin clear and tight, making pores less noticeable. One of the most important things that doctors try to prescribe, however, is a reality check. "Pores are a vital part of the skin, and getting rid of them completely is impossible," Lupo says. "My best advice is to stop looking in the magnifying mirror. Why subject yourself to larger-than-life pores if you're the only one who can see them?"

Over the counter
Pore-minimizing products will help your pores look clearer — and therefore appear smaller — if you use them on a regular basis, Graf says. "But any effects are temporary — once you stop, your pores will go back to their old ways."

Cleansers
Exfoliation is key to a refined complexion. Cleansers containing a low concentration — .5 to 1 percent — of salicylic acid (which is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA) or a moderate concentration — 2.5 to 5 percent — of lactic or glycolic acid (which are alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs) stimulate cell turnover and keep pores clean, Lupo says. Try Skin Effects by Dr. Jeffrey Dover Acne Cleansing Daily Mask or Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 3% Facial Wash. If your skin is very oily, Graf suggests switching to a cleanser that also contains the antioxidant Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, or NDGA. "There's proof that it maintains clear pores by preventing oil oxidation (an organic reaction with air that causes oil to darken, a.k.a. a blackhead) and reducing inflammation and excess sebum," she says. Try the NDGA-infused Donell Super Skin Facial Cleanser. And be sure everything you use is oil-free. "The idea is to get rid of oil, not add more," says New York City dermatologist Patricia Wexler.

Moisturizers
The moisturizer you use on large pores should be oil-free and contain the same ingredients as your cleanser (though you don't have to worry about finding one with NDGA), along with vitamin C or retinol. "These stimulate cell renewal and collagen production, which will firm up the connective tissue around the pores," Graf says. "Over time, they'll appear tighter and smaller." And don't ever skip sunscreen. "It should offer both UVA and UVB protection and have a minimum of SPF 15," she says. Two good ones: Olay Anti-Wrinkle Daily SPF 15 Lotion (with retinol and beta hydroxy acids) and Neutrogena Advanced Solutions Daily Moisturizer SPF 15 (with retinol and glycolic acid).

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